“Finding myself” in Northern Thailand

500 miles north of Bangkok is the second largest city, Chiang Mai. This was my first time travelling solo, and so a whole new experience. I stayed at Hug Hostel in the heart of the city. In need of a drink I purchased a bottle of the local rum, Samsong, from the hostel bar which at only 150 baht ($5) is encouraging alcoholism. I found myself playing the infamous get drunk card game ‘ring of fire’ with a group of travelers including an Irishman, Americans, Australians and a Dutch. This led to us heading to Zoe in Yellow bar for a night of fist pump-esque music.

Chiang Mai was the place I had heard so many other travellers talk about; you must go to a cookery class, you need to go to an elephant sanctuary… so I did just that. I joined 2 other girls from my hostel on a half day course at the Thai Kitchen Cookery Centre for 800 baht which is about $25. When I do return home, whenever that may be, fear not I can now cook you deliciously crispy spring rolls followed by a sweet and spicy massaman curry and peanut filled pad Thai.

The following day I booked onto a day tour which included a visit to an orchid and butterfly farm, visits to the long neck village and 7 hill tribe, an elephant ride and ended in a trip to a waterfall and bamboo rafting. This trip put me back 1600 baht ($50). Yes this was quite expensive, however for me totally worth the money. It was so fascinating learning about the tribes and their way of life. For example the long neck tribe are refugees from Burma who were accepted and supported by the Thai government for the tourist money they bring in. As you enter their village, women and children are selling souvenirs and scarves for you to buy.

So why the long neck? Women originally wore the brass copper metals coiled up around their necks to protect them from tiger attacks. Nowadays this is a tradition and girls as young as 5 years old can be found wearing these. The youngest girl I met was just 10 years old and I wish I could say she looked comfortable… I tried on a half ring weighing in at around 2kg and it pressed hard into my collar bone.

Now before anyone judges me, yes I did ride an elephant with a seat. However, read to the end of my blog to understand my experience. I mention this because I have met so many backpackers who would ‘omg never ride an elephant’. It seems to be somewhat of a taboo subject in the traveler world. So I arrived to the camp where some of the elephants were chained and some of the trained Mahout riders were using bamboo sticks to control the elephants, not the iydillic image I had in mind. However, I read a poster on arrival that explains their reasoning for their control methods. For example, the chains are used to prevent the elephants from running wild into the surrounding farms and it is the same as to how a horse is kept in a stable. The poster also explained elephants can weigh up to 35 tonnes and carry up to 20 tonnes. Their skin is around 1 inch thick so the bamboo stick should not cause harm, so it says. This camp also used mats to protect the elephant from the seat used.

Our rider just used his voice and the occasional kick to control the elephant and I had my token photo with the elephant I rode. Happy days, or maybe not so much…

Wanting to experience an even closer encounter with the Asian elephant I paid 2500 baht ($75) to visit the well known Elephant Nature Park for the day. With promises of feeding and washing the elephants I couldn’t wait. During the 1.5 hour mini bus drive to the sanctuary we were played a video featuring Tom Oliver, aka Lou Carpenter from Neighbours, followed by an Animal Planet feature on Asian elephants. Cheesy? Far from it. For the first time, I began to understand the horrible fate for many of these gentle giants.

In Thailand there is an estimated 3,000-4,000 elephants. Around half are domesticated and the remainder living wild in National Parks Reserves, whilst some 300 are still suffering. A movie during the visit tells the inspiring story of Lek, the woman who opened the 250 acre sanctuary for distressed elephants from all over Thailand. Her herd includes disabled, orphaned and blind elephants of all ages who have been rescued from the abusive training involved in the tourism, begging and logging industries. I learned of one female elephant who broke her back left hip whilst logging, although now in a much happier place she still struggles with this injury.

I experienced mixed emotions during this visit. Although I do want to believe the Mahout love their elephants and respect their business, you really can see how happy the elephants in their wild habitat seemed in comparison to those I saw being ridden the day before.

I know you may be a little bored of reading about my Asian adventure now, so if you want to stop reading here I’ll just say this – Pai is BRILLIANT! Want to read more?

Ok, good. So after a 2 hour bus journey from Chiang Mai (180 baht) you can find yourself in the peaceful town of Pai, again somewhere mentioned as a favourite spot with backpackers. As soon as I arrived, after the monstrous 762 curve drive famous for making people vomit, I felt a sense of peace. It really is beautifully picturesque.

During the day I sunbathed at the infinity pool and watched acro-yoga and circus tricks being practiced by a mainly hippie type crowd staying at the Famous Pai Circus Resort.

Walking Street was just a short walk away once you crossed the bamboo bridge. Walking Street market is perfect, you can find silly cheap street eats from Thai dishes to burritos, burgers and crepes. In the mornings we would have breakfast at our favourite spot Cafe de Pai where we could enjoy eggs on toast with fresh avocado.

Come night time, Pai Circus resort came alive with music playing and everyone enjoying buckets and Chang. For me and my new pal Cherry, this also meant an early bedtime. Their buckets are strong, don’t be fooled by the sweetness of the juice! On our second evening we watched a fire show where some of the performers had found their new talent at the resort – great free entertainment.

Now I say the resort came alive at night, however to be honest it also never really sleeps. For 200 baht I selected a 12 bed dorm. Equipped with bamboo beds and bamboo flooring this is basic accommodation. I was allocated a top bunk, a backpacker’s dread, my ladder was hanging on by one side and I did fear I would find myself plummeting into the depths of the bamboo below. Generally speaking I can sleep anywhere, so the squeaky bamboo floor and the clucking chickens didn’t bother me so much. What I wasn’t prepared for was how cold it became during the night. Newly purchased hippie pants, a jumper and 3x blankets didn’t quite cut it. Now, onto the sunny South…

A Cambodian Christmas

After 3 flights and a 5 hour taxi with what seemed to be a half blind driver we arrived at Otres Beach. It’s dark, I can’t see any parties going on let alone any people around. Where the hell have we ended up for Christmas.
We checked into our bungalow at don’t tell mamma, again despite the light being on it’s dark can’t see much. Straight to bed, cosey under the mosquito net.
It’s Christmas Eve now and the birthday of our very favourite welsh Steph. When is a respectable time to not only wake up the birthday girl but surprise her as she had no idea we were meeting her in Cambodia. Following behind the other girls me, Sarah and Anton snuck in and jumped on the poor girl who is still half asleep. SURPRISE! To say Steph was surprised is an understatement, so shocked her boob fell out her pyjama top. Now seeing otres beach in the daylight is a very different experience. Straw thatched roof bars and restaurants line the beach with their very inviting lounge chairs and hammocks. Local girls inviting you to be their best friend, “my friend take a good luck bracelet”, “my friend you want something you come to me”. I did “open my heart and open my wallet” to my friend O; $7 hair braid, $25 leg and arm pit thread and a $10 full body massage on the beach and just because she asked me nicely, a $3 bracelet. You go girl.

Our favourite spot to eat, mainly because it was opposite our guesthouse, was Pappa Pippo. An Italian restaurant which served us English breakfasts and pizzas galore. For about US $5 you can get a good feed and we consumed one too many Mai Tai cocktails here, at just $3.50 it would be rude not to.
Christmas Day to be honest didn’t really feel like Christmas, however it was December 25th and we were going to celebrate. Sat on our balcony with bottles of prosecco, chocolate and carols blaring out the speaker we were set. Steph’s love of Christmas songs, especially the 12 days of Christmas, put us in good spirits.

Come 3pm the hunt for a traditional Christmas dinner began. Pigs in blankets were top of the list. However, slight issue being a group of 12 on an Island leaving it so late in the day. After 2 tuk tuk journeys and a walk up otres beach we settled on a pub in Sihanoukville which served a $5 roast dinner. It wasn’t great but it did come with Yorkshire puds… Winner winner chicken dinner – literally.

27th December we took the ferry to the isolated Island of Koh Ta Kiev. Relatively untouched with no electricity this was a gem to visit. Whilst half the group set up camp in their hammocks, the rest of us booked into a tree top bungalow; or a tree house if you like. Squeezing through the winding staircase you find yourself face to face with a round mattress and a stunning view of the ocean. What about a toilet you may ask. Yes our tree house also came equipped with a toilet with a view. Unfortunate for anyone who may have a taken a snorkel in the sea below where the shit pipe does exit into the sea.

We enjoyed the simple life on the Island basking in the sun in the day and sat around the heat of a campfire in the evening. Here on the Island I sampled the national dish, an Amok curry. This is a curry with lemongrass, coconut and chilli seasoning – beaut and just $3. However this did catch me off guard whilst enjoying our loo with a view the next day.

As beautiful as an experience as this was, I’m pretty sure there were rat poo droppings around our toilet and something did take a bite out of my banana I left on the side. I suppose what you don’t know doesn’t hurt! In need of a proper shower we returned to otres beach the next day.
Upon returning we next experienced a night out in Sihanoukville, or Snookie if you are down with the backpackers. We consumed copious pre drinks in happy hour at the Big Easy. $1.50 per glass of wine and 2 for 1 cocktails at $3.50. Bargain. Along with sachets of Joss (an energy drink powder made from taurin, yes aka bull sperm) we were charged for the night ahead. LED lit bars line Serendipity beach. We danced to pop at Dolphins along with the local prostitutes and lady boys and ended in JJ’s, more commercial house music and your stereotypical house music lovers. Despite the tackiness it was a fun evening.
Come 30th December we took the $20 return ferry journey to Koh Rong. The party Island of party islands. As you approach on the ferry the mass of bars, guest houses and hostels catch your eye before the heavy bass of the music sets in.
Dogs and puppies everywhere, squeaky white sand and a beautifully clear ocean… A day dreamer’s fantasy.

New Year’s Eve was definitely one to remember partying amongst the fairy lights on Police beach. This truly is a beautiful Island and you soon learn your quiet tranquil spots from the I won’t go to sleep spots. Again whilst half the group set camp in the jungle the rest of us checked into the hostel Island Boys. I can sum this place up in 3 words: disgusting, loud and overpriced. To survive in the hostel you need to be of the hardcore elite. Unlucky for us our room was next to the toilet so the scents of shit and urine drifted in throughout the night. The bass trumped until 4am and gave us a wake up call at 8am. For $10 a night this is what you call an absolute joke. After New Year’s Eve we walked a little further down the beach and found a quieter guest house for $10 a night. Another beauty spot to experience on Koh Rong is Long Beach. You can take a taxi boat here for $6 return. However sometimes in life it is more fun not to take the easy option. So instead Anton, Sarah and I trekked for 1.5 hours barefoot through the jungle, climbing rocks to reach this beauty spot. Absolutely worth the trek but this did result in me sleeping all afternoon on the beach. Yes we did take a taxi boat back and yes my feet are now solid.

From sihnoukville we took the 5 hour bus to Phnom Penh arriving on saturday 3rd jan. Upon recommendation of many backpackers we stayed at mad monkey which is spot on for travellers. Just $7 a night and bunk beds the size of queen beds, it’s the little luxuries. Here we paid a tuk tuk driver $5 each to take us around the city for the day. First stop the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, aka the killing fields. This really was one of the most harrowing experiences of my life. Listening to an audio tape you are led around the site which consists of the remains of mass graves and pits where fragment of human bones and cloth surface. This particular site saw around 20,000 people killed and buried. The 17 story glass memoral stupa holds the skulls of over 8000 victims.

For me the most chilling part of the stories recalled was the ‘killing tree’. Today the tree stands peacefully with several coloured bracelets left by well wishers. However the tape recalls the horrific torture this tree presented to it’s victims. It is said the remains of brain, skull and blood were found on this tree where Babies’ heads were smashed against it and thrown into the mass grave next to it with the women. Unfortunately for Sarah, Anton and I we were suffering the effects of a dodgy stomach this day and this whole experience really was stomach churning.
From the killing fields we were taken to the former S-21 prison, the Tuol Sleng Museum. Between 1975 and 1978 approximately 17,000 men, women, children and babies were detained and tortured here before they were transported to the killings fields to be brutally murdered. The silence as you walk through the old cells of the prisoners with their rusted beds and torture instruments is disturbing. Each prisoner who passed through S-21 was photographed and some of these black and white photos are displayed through the museum. The portraits are taken so close you can see the anguish in the faces of the women, men and child prisoners. It is truly shocking that torture of this extent can exist and remain unknown to the rest of the world, Cambodia lost around 3 million of their 8 million population during this genocide.
Our day trip ended visiting a shooting range, no not the kind where you can blow up chickens and cows, our unlucky target was a coconut. For $40 i fired 10 bullets from a shotgun – boom.

Phnom Penh was an eye opening experience, this won’t be part of the trip I fondly reminisce however it will have a lasting impact I will never forget. 11pm Monday 5th January Sarah and I boarded the Great Ibis sleeper bus to move us onto new ventures in Siem Reap. A sore back and 7 hours later we arrived.

It was refreshing to arrive in Siem Reap, here we had been told all about the famous ‘Pub Street’. Teeming with restaurants and bars we enjoyed copious amounts of food and cocktails here, and again a lot of Italian food. Our excuse – Khmer food gives us a dodgy belly. Are we looking skinny yet? Probably not, absolute carb overload.

The night markets in Angkor are great, we picked up silk and pashmina scarves for family and friends at home for a haggled price of just $5. The main reason for visiting Siem Reap is of course to see the Angkor Temples. We hired a tuk tuk for the day for $3.50 and began the viewings at Angkor Wat.

We hired a tour guide to take us around Angkor Wat to learn more about the history. However, this also proved very valuale to add some logic to our visit as this temple is huge. It is difficult to understand how something of this size and magnificence was hidden in the jungle for so many years, unknown to the rest of the world. This is the biggest religious complex on Earth!

From Angkor Wat we moved onto Ta Prohm, here scenes from Lara Croft Tomb raider were filmed. What was most striking about this temple are the HUGE trees that grow out of the ruins.

We made Bayon Temple our last visit for the day, we were feeling rather hot and bothered by this point. Fortunately, ‘the stairway to heaven’ at Angkor Wat was first thing in the morning…

So what have I learnt in Cambodia?

Tuk tuks are amazing, so cheap and airey. However when you are asked by every driver that passes if you need a tuk tuk a simple ”te aw kohn” is most effective – NO thank you!!

The local people are so friendly and helpful. Guesthouses tend to be a much nicer experience than some of the hostels ran by Australians and are often cheaper.

Bum guns serve their purpose, but carry loo roll with you – a Khmer belly can catch you off guard at any time and sometimes you just can’t face the gun.