As my trip around South East Asia comes to an end this is my final Asian Adventure blog. They say travel is the only thing you buy that makes you richer, however I am now extremely poor. Despite owning hippie pants, leaving with a new tattoo and being able to carry a 20kg backpack I still do not consider myself a pro backpacker. Even after almost 3 months of travelling Asia I am still victim to the oh so coy scams in my last couple of weeks that every savvy backpacker thinks will not catch them out. So naturally this blog is dedicated to help you learn from my experiences of being ‘mugged off’.
My first island stop was Koh Chang, a 5 hour journey from Bangkok to Thailand’s 2nd largest island. I stayed on Klong Prao beach at Pajamas hostel where I met a great group of people. We played a cracking game of ‘would you rather’, overindulged in the free breakfast and of course buckets at Lonely Beach where the fairy light lit street is lined with bars.
In Koh Chang, I experienced my first mug off by taxis. Due to return to Bangkok for the Chinese New Year I headed outside my hostel at 9.30am, 1 hour before my ferry departure to get a taxi. Taxis would not stop or refused my journey up the hill to the pier. It’s now 10am, I’m sweating, but positive thinking is my new thing so it’s all good. At last a taxi stops, however the greedy bugger wants 400 baht for the 60 baht journey. I pleaded with him to help me, offered 200 baht but it was not good enough. 5 minutes later another taxi passes and agrees to take me for 60 baht. I’m sat in the taxi, these are literally pick up trucks with benches. If it weren’t for the fact I had shorts on and a sweaty bum I am sure I would have slid right off the back as we sped up the hill. 10.32am I arrive at the pier to see my ferry cruising away. Consequently I also missed my connecting bus. The law of attraction failed me this time. However, Koh Chang taxi driver the joke is on you as a new bus ticket only put me back 200 baht instead of the 400 baht he wanted.
Following the Chinese New year, and again craving beach time, the next stop was Koh Tao. Here I found one of my favourite beaches in Thailand, Freedom Beach.
This secluded shore is beautiful, sea shells hang from the trees and the tiny beach creates an intimate feel, the only beach in Thailand I found to have this. We had to take a taxi here from our hostel, Taco Shack, and agreed a return rate of 100 baht each for 5 of us. This was the 2nd occassion taxis in Thailand mugged me off. Upon exiting back at our hostel we were accused of under paying as the journey was apparently 100 baht each way. Maybe a miscommunication so we can let this one pass. Overall, Koh Tao was my number 2 island in Thailand. Nang Yuan island was also an enjoyable day trip with a great view point. We took a taxi boat here from Sairee Beach for 300 baht return.
Sairee Beach is the place to head if you are looking to party. Here I found I am rather talented at the fire limbo. I managed to bag myself 2 free shots by doing a backwards bridge walk under the limbo, winning. Don’t worry Dad, I am leaving Thailand unscathed.
From Koh Tao, we did a rather awkward route over to the other side to Koh Phi Phi. This involved an overnight ferry, thin mattresses which would have been more appropriate as a baby changing mat lined the floor.
This sleepover meant we endured a night of face to face sleeping, let’s hope everyones’ slumber neighbours had brushed their teeth beforehand.
Phi Phi was my favourite island, with no transport it is enjoyable to explore by foot without the fear of a motorbike creeping behind you. Stones Bar on Ao Lo Dalam beach put on the best fire show I have seen in Thailand. These guys are incredibly talented and perform for hours each evening. You do have to wonder what long term damage these guys are exposing themselves to breathing in these fumes whilst throwing flames and busting some moves.
In Phi Phi I went on a day tour which took us to the surrounding islands Bamboo Island, Monkey Island and Maya Bay which was made famous by the movie ‘The Beach’.
The islands are stunning, however it was disappointing to see so many other tourists doing similar trips and overcrowding the islands. On my boat I had the largest man I have seen in Asia; in weight, height and his HUGE big toes. This German man did not seem to understand the concept of balancing the weight on the boat and we were very close to losing a few flying passengers overboard, although perhaps this would have done the islands a favour.
Koh Phi Phi are you mugging me off? No, unfortunately I mugged myself off here. One too many vodka redbulls on the beach led to a disappearing iphone.
Since I left home in January last year, I have stayed in dorm rooms or shared bedrooms with friends and other travellers the entire time. So to arrive to the Mantra Samui boutique resort in Koh Samui was a dream. A double bed to myself with a choice of 4 pillows, naturally I sampled all of these whilst star fishing each night. It was amazing to see my family after over a year. Here we celebrated the marriage of my cousin Lee to his beautiful wife Vicki on the perfect beach setting with lanterns, fireworks and a Thai feast, hats off to you both this wedding will be hard to top.
After 5 nights of luxury I was brought back down to backpacker reality and checked into the grottiest hostel of my stay, Coral Bungalows in Koh Phangan. Famous for the full moon parties, that is exactly what we came for. Thousands of people descend onto Haad Rin beach with their luminous paints and shirts. Not trusting ourselves to paint our faces, Katie and I paid 100 baht to have this done ‘professionally’.
Despite being my final island stop of Thailand, I still got scammed – twice! First at the full moon party. I ordered a local vodka bucket, these were displayed on the bar at 150 baht per bucket. The barman tells me 200 baht when paying and without thinking I handed over the cash. This overly cocky barman then handed 50 baht right in front of me to his mate and that’s when it clicked. After a 5 minute argument with the guy because apparently it was my fault as he told me 200 the manager came over and gave me my change. Yes 50 baht isn’t much (it’s about £1) but it’s not the point, I am fed up this blatant money grabbing.
Over the Thai vodka, the next night I treated myself to a Smirnoff apple vodka bucket, having sampled the girls’ it tasted 100 times better than the cheap local alternative. With my guard down, I made a school boy error of failing to ask to pour and mix this myself. For 350 baht I got a local vodka and apple juice. Cheers.
This blog may seem like a bit of a rant and I suppose it is. Thailand is amazing, but the atmosphere of Bangkok and the islands is very different to that of Northern Thailand. It seems everyone here is money grabbing and taking advantage of tourists and backpackers when a fair deal should still exist.
Here are my top tips to help you ensure you don’t get mugged off:
Taxis – Bangkok taxis all say they offer journeys by the meter, highly unlikely they will agree to this because of the bad traffic (there is always traffic in Bangkok!) so be sure you know roughly what to expect to pay. You may have to try a few but you will find one that offers a fair price eventually. Tuk Tuks tend to be a little more expensive, however they will get you to your destination in half the time!
Buckets – if ordering a premium spirit, you must ask to pour this yourself. Make sure the bottle is sealed otherwise you will be enjoying a local variety which will ensure a bad taste and nasty hangover.
Ferry & Bus Journeys – shop around at different travel agents as you will find the price can vary by 100’s of baht; it all adds up! Everyone will warn you that the travel runs on it’s own schedule, so one would assume it’s late. Quite the opposite. I took 2 bus journeys that both arrived 2-3 hours ahead of schedule. Great if you are travelling in the day. Terrible inconvenience if you are dumped at Khaosan Road at 4am, rats the size of rabbits roam the streets at this time amongst other unsightly things…
South East Asia has been such a great experience and I leave with amazing memories and new friends. I have overspent and overeaten so it’s time to return to the land down under to see to this awful bank balance and buddah belly!
Asian & Australian Adventures 